Steps in Cleaning Your 1911

In a world of polymer-framed pistols, there’s something enduring about the steel, precision and history of the 1911. A well-made 1911 is a thing of beauty and a reliable carry gun, but owning one means knowing how to clean a pistol properly. You can find simple joy in cleaning your 1911. Whether you’re prepping for range day or storing your gun for the season, understanding the steps involved in cleaning a 1911 is essential for longevity and performance.

Let’s walk through how to disassemble a 1911, clean it thoroughly and reassemble it with confidence. As always, we’ll start with safety.

Step 1: Safety First — Clear Your 1911

Before cleaning any gun, you must clear it. Take care to follow the four universal safety rules:

1. Treat all firearms as if they are loaded.
2. Never point the firearm at anything you’re not willing to shoot.
3. Keep your finger off the trigger until you have made the decision to shoot.
4. Know your target and understand what is beyond it.

Drop your magazine. Next, rack your slide to clear the chamber. Do this even if you believe the chamber is empty. Then verify by sticking your finger in the 1911’s chamber. Relying on sight alone to clear your gun is not recommended; sometimes our eyes miss what our sense of touch discovers.

You will continue to treat it as if it were loaded, making safety a habit.

Step 2: 1911 Takedown — Field-Strip Your Pistol

Remember, we’re field-stripping for cleaning, not disassembling the gun entirely. Here, I’ll guide you through how to disassemble a 1911 with a bushing. Some 1911s have bull barrels; field-stripping those varies slightly. These steps are specific to the Remington R1 line. However, there are only slight variations among the various 1911 models with bushing barrels.

Reminder: Your gun is clear, correct? Good.

1. Cock the hammer of your gun (pull it completely rearward).
2. Engage the safety.
3. Depress the recoil spring plug located directly below the muzzle using either your hands or a barrel bushing wrench. As you push the plug inward, rotate the barrel bushing clockwise approximately 1/4 of a full revolution. Take care not to turn the bushing so far that it releases the plug (you want the edge of the bushing to maintain pressure on the plug, holding it in place). This is easiest accomplished with a barrel bushing wrench. Most 1911s will come with one.
4. Disengage the safety and rack the slide until the rearmost, curved edge of the slide stop lines up with the disassembly notch — the smaller of the two notches in the slide, located closer to the grip. To accomplish this, hold the gun upside-down (muzzle aimed in a safe direction) and wrap your left hand across the top rearward portion of the slide, with your thumb hooked around the top of the gun’s backstrap.
5. Holding the slide with your left hand as instructed above, rotate the gun so you are looking at its right-hand side. Use your right index finger to start pushing the slide stop pin through to the other side.
6. Rotate the gun back around and pull the slide stop all the way out. Set it aside.
7. Remove the slide from the frame by pushing it forward. Set it aside.
8. Turn the slide over so its top is facing the ground or resting on your work surface. Remove the recoil spring guide rod and recoil spring together by lifting them upward over the barrel, free of the barrel link, and then rearward.
9. Turn the barrel bushing counter-clockwise and push both the barrel and the barrel bushing forward. This unlocks the barrel bushing lug and allows them to be removed from the barrel. Set them aside.
10. Flip the barrel link all the way forward and remove the barrel by sliding it forward out the front of the slide.

You’ve completed a basic 1911 takedown and are now ready to begin cleaning the pistol.

Step 3: Cleaning the 1911

There are a number of firearms maintenance products on the market, and I have a bin full of great options. However, I prefer to use SEAL 1 products on all of my guns. Some products perform better than others, so find one you like. For simplicity’s sake, I’ll outline cleaning my Remington R1 10mm Hunter using SEAL 1, a non-toxic, environmentally friendly and multi-purpose cleaner. It is designed to cut through carbon buildup while also lubricating and protecting my guns.

Barrel and Barrel Bushing Cleaning

Using a cleaner-saturated patch or a SEAL Skinz pre-lubricated patch, wipe the inside and outside of the barrel bushing. If the bushing needs to be scrubbed, use a nylon brush with SEAL 1 Liquid. Once you are finished, wipe it down with a soft rag dampened with SEAL 1 Liquid.

Move on to the barrel. Wet an appropriately sized bore brush with SEAL 1 Liquid. Move the bore brush back and forth through the barrel vigorously, pausing to re-apply your cleaning agent of choice at least once. The bore brush scrubs the barrel and loosens residue, simplifying the next step. (Tip: Always clean the barrel from the chamber end, not the muzzle end.)

Switch to a cleaning rod with a jag attached to the end. Slip a SEAL Skinz or clean, dry patch through the cleaning jag. If you use a dry patch, take a moment to saturate it with a liquid cleaning product. Run several patches through the barrel, one after another, until they come out clean. When you’re satisfied, run one final SEAL Skinz or lubricant-saturated patch through the barrel. Then run a clean, dry patch through to remove excess lubricant.

Use SEAL Skinz or a patch saturated with cleaning fluid to clean the exterior of the barrel. Take care to remove residue from the locking lugs on the exterior of the barrel. If there is too much residue to wipe off with saturated patches, use a nylon brush to clean it thoroughly. Then wipe it down again. When you are satisfied the barrel’s exterior is clean, wipe it down with your choice of lubricant using a soft rag.

Cleaning the Slide

Clean the slide next. Remington suggests spraying it with Rem Action Cleaner; I simply apply SEAL 1 Liquid to a nylon brush. Regardless of how you apply cleaner, you’ll be using the nylon brush for the slide. A little cleaner such as SEAL 1 CLP Plus Paste or Liquid on the brush goes a long way. Grip the slide with the muzzle end away from your body and begin scrubbing. Take care to clean the barrel lug cuts, extractor and breech block. When you believe it is clean, wipe it off with a clean, dry patch. Repeat until the patch comes back clean. Lightly lubricate the slide rails, hammer cocking surface, lug cuts and the bushing lug cut at the muzzle end of the slide.

Rags come in handy at this point for wiping down the exterior and interior of the slide. Q-tips or Swab-Its dipped in cleaner are great for cleaning nooks and crannies. When you are done, wipe down the exterior of the slide with a soft rag with SEAL 1 Liquid on it. Set the slide aside.

Clean a 1911 Frame

To clean the receiver, either spray with Rem Action Cleaner or wet your nylon brush with SEAL 1 Liquid. Use the nylon brush to remove fouling. Again, Q-tips or Swab-Its can come in handy. Lightly oil the interior of the receiver, paying special attention to the contact points of the hammer, disconnector and what Remington calls the “service window” in the magazine well.
(Note: Some manufacturers do not recommend lubricating the latter part. In the long run, experience will be your guide in what to lubricate. For now, follow the lubrication guidelines for your model.)
When you finish, wipe down the exterior with the same soft rag you’ve been using to oil lightly as you go.

A word on grip panels: You can remove the grip panels from the receiver and wipe off any grit and dirt that’s collected under the edges. You don’t have to do this every time you clean your 1911, but it is recommended to do it occasionally.

Step 4: Re-assembling Your 1911

Reassemble your 1911 by reversing the aforementioned field-stripping steps.

1. Slide the barrel back into the slide.
2. Insert the guide rod and recoil spring.
3. Align the barrel link and reinstall the slide stop.
4. Reinstall the recoil spring plug and rotate the barrel bushing back into place.
5. Rack the slide to ensure proper cycling and function.

When the gun is back in one piece, cycle the action repeatedly to spread lubricant. A nice touch is to apply an ultra-light coat of lubricant or oil with a clean rag to the gun’s exterior.

Maintaining Your 1911: Key Takeaways for Cleaning and Takedown

Place your clean 1911 in your safe or holster. There’s no excuse to neglect cleaning and lubricating your 1911. Knowing how to clean your 1911 is a key part of gun ownership. Regular maintenance after range trips or carry ensures reliability when it matters most. In fact, you’ll find your gun performs better for longer periods with good maintenance.

My 1911 Specs:

Manufacturer: Remington	Slide Finish: PVD DLC
Model: R1 10mm Hunter FDE	Slide Material: Stainless steel
Caliber: 10mm	Barrel Length: 6.0 inches
Capacity: 8+1	Overall Length: 9.5 inches
Action: Semi-Auto	Height: 5.75 inches
Frame Size: Government, long slide	Weight: 41 ounces, empty
Frame Material: Stainless Steel

FAQ: 1911 Cleaning and Disassembly

Q: How often should I clean my 1911?
A: It’s recommended to clean your 1911 after every shooting session. Regular cleaning ensures proper function, reduces wear and helps prevent malfunctions — especially in a precision platform like the 1911.

Q: Is it difficult to learn how to disassemble a 1911?
A: Not at all. While the 1911 has more parts than some modern pistols, learning how to disassemble a 1911 becomes straightforward with practice. Following a step-by-step takedown guide will make the process easier and safer.

Q: What’s different about cleaning a 1911 compared to other pistols?
A: The 1911’s design includes parts like a barrel bushing and guide rod that may not be present in polymer-framed pistols. Cleaning a 1911 requires slightly more steps, but it’s also more rewarding due to the pistol’s craftsmanship and history.

Q: Can beginners safely perform a 1911 takedown and cleaning?
A: Absolutely. With the right tools, a bit of patience and clear instructions, beginners can safely learn how to clean a pistol like the 1911. Start slow, double-check safety at every stage, and you’ll be confident in no time.

Q: Do I need to fully disassemble my 1911 for every cleaning?
A: No. For regular maintenance, a basic field strip is sufficient. Full disassembly should be reserved for deep cleanings or repairs and is usually unnecessary for routine care.

Sources

Remington: Remington.com
SEAL 1: SEAL1.net